2.1 Chemicals
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (CAS no. 61789-32-0), Beeswax (INCI: Cera alba; CAS no: 8012-89-3), Olivem 1000 (INCI: Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate; CAS no: 85116-80-9, 92202-01-2), and Cotton Seed Oil (INCI: Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil; CAS no: 8001-29-4) were purchased at PlenaNatura (Amadora, Portugal).
Black cumin seed oil (INCI: Nigella Sativa Seed Oil; CAS no. 84929-41-9), Maize starch (INCI: Zea Mays Starch; CAS no. 9005-25-8), Cosgard (INCI: Benzyl alcohol & dehydroacetic acid; CAS no: 100-51-6/ 69-72-7/ 56-81-5/ 110-44-1), Melissa Hydrosol (INCI: Melissa officinalis water; CAS no: 84082-61-1), German Chamomile essential oil (INCI: Matricaria Recutita Flower Oil; CAS no: 84082-60-0), and Lemon essential oil (INCI: Citrus Limon Peel Oil; CAS: 8008-56-8 / 84929-31-7) were purchased at Aroma-Zone (Paris, France).
2.2 Equipment cleansing and disinfection
It is necessary to clean and disinfect the equipment to minimize the risk of contamination. For that, a cleaning solution, denatured alcohol (70% alcohol by volume) in a spray bottle, boiled water, and clean rags are required.
Protective clothing was used, and hair was tied back. Work surfaces were cleaned with a cleaning solution and sprayed with alcohol. Surfaces were dried with a single-use paper towel. Metal, silicone, and glass containers were disinfected and sterilized, and for that, the equipment was boiled in water for 20 minutes and dried with a single-use paper towel. Next, each item was sprayed with alcohol, ensuring it reached into the inside containers and the lids. Items were dried with a single-use paper towel. Tools and non-heat-resistance plastic containers were sprayed with alcohol, ensuring it reached the inside containers. The containers and tools were air-dried.
2.3 Almond harvest and preparation
Almonds (variety Pegarinhos) were selected because they are natural ingredients in the Trás-os-Montes area and were obtained from an organic farmer in October 2022. Before the experiment, almond shells were separated from the almond. Almonds were dried in a conventional oven at 200ºC for 10 min. After that, they were grounded to a powder. Almond Shells were grounded to particles < 2 mm (Figure 1).
2.4 Records
For each preparation, a traceability worksheet was created (Table 1). This document was created to trace quantities and batches used for each ingredient. It is helpful to understand and research irritant or allergenic components in case of a cutaneous reaction.
Table 1 - Example of a traceability Worksheet
2.5 Almond shells - Solid Body Exfoliant
The exact formulation is described in Table 2.
Table 2 – Solid Body Exfoliant with Almond Shells formulation
Phase
|
Ingredient
|
%
|
A
|
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)
|
32
|
A
|
Distilled water
|
30
|
A
|
Black cumin seed oil
|
17
|
A
|
Maize starch
|
17
|
B
|
Grounded almond shells
|
3
|
C
|
Lemon essential oil
|
1
|
1. SCI surfactant, distilled water, black cumin seed oil, and maize starch were placed in a bowl and heated in a water bath (Figure 2A).
2. Preparation was mixed while heated until a homogenous paste was obtained.
3. Almond shells were added, and the lemon essential oil (Figure 2B).
4. The preparation was transferred into a mould (Figure 2C).
5. The preparation was placed in the freezer for 30 min.
6. Solid scrub was air-dried for 48h before use.
2.6 Almonds – Nutritive Facial Mask
The exact formulation is described in Table 3.
Table 3 – Nutritive Facial Almond Mask Formulation
Phase
|
Ingredient
|
%
|
A
|
Cotton seed oil
|
18,25
|
A
|
Beeswax
|
2,00
|
A
|
Olivem 1000
|
6,05
|
B
|
Melissa hydrosol
|
70,25
|
C
|
Powdered almonds
|
2,25
|
D
|
German chamomile essential oil
|
0,20
|
E
|
Cosgard
|
1,00
|
1. Phase A ingredients were weighed and transferred to a bowl (Figure 3A).
2. In another bowl, phase B ingredients were weighed (Figure 3B).
3. Both phases were heated separately in a water bath to 75ºC – 80ºC.
4. Bowls were removed from the water bath, and phase B was slowly poured into phase A. The mixture was vigorously stirred for 3 min.
5. With continuous stirring, the bowl was placed in another bowl with ice water to accelerate the cooling process and help the emulsion's fixation for another 3 min.
6. The rest of the ingredients were added, following the order presented in the formulation, mixing well between each addition (Figure 3C).
7. The mixture was transferred to an amber bottle (Figure 3D).
2.7 Labelling
After the cosmetic preparations, labelling it to follow a reassuring approach is essential. This conscientious labelling allows for avoiding confusion on the type of product and its use, for securing the cosmetics by clearly identifying their ingredients, and to be informed very quickly about the date of manufacture and the shelf life of the preparation for use as advised. Information to be included on the label:
1. Product name: Indicating the precise NAME of the preparation
2. Composition: Listing of all the INGREDIENTS incorporated into the formulation.
3. Date of manufacture and shelf life: The product's DATE OF MANUFACTURE and the EXPIRATION DATE calculated with the conservation period indicated in the suggested protocol. Preparation should be stored away from light and heat.
4. Capacity: The label can be completed by indicating the CAPACITY of the container. If necessary, the specific type of USE or the type of skin concerned, or special PRECAUTIONS for use can be specified.