The paper presents one case study, but the hereby described method, as well as the developed methodology for analyzing the final results of the modelling process, can be replicated and applied for any new study case. The high degree of interaction between practitioner/designer and its computer, as well as the high level of customization are the main advantages of this re-designing process. Five working stages are considered in order to obtain the modified last: 1) scanning of the foot; 2) positioning of the anatomical points on foot; 3) measurement/calculation of the main anthropometric measurements; 4) comparison of the foot against the reference last; 5) modification of the last according to the foot shape.
2.1. Scanning of the foot
The studied case refers to a subject having visibly identified foot problems that ask for a careful interpretation of the design features based on anthropometric data, biomechanics and orthopaedic requirements. The subject (47-year-old, female) agreed to be studied on a voluntary basis. She has been previously diagnosed with arthritis and the results of clinical analysis of her feet allowed establishing the correct premises for designing a customized last according to the identified risk of developing a more severe arthritic foot. Several initial stages of structural modification related to arthritic feet have been identified, in this case, especially in the forefoot area. Thus, the subject presents incipient stages of modification on the first toe (Hallux-Valgus) on both feet and, visible differences in the height of the first toe of the right foot and the left foot.
The subject’s foot is scanned by using a 3D foot scanning system; respectively the INFOOT USB Standard Model IFU-S-01, provided with eight progressive ¼’ CCD cameras and four laser instruments, class 1M. INFOOT scans a foot and positions the anatomical landmarks, which are used to measure automatically/calculate up to 20 measuring items. It scans the 3D foot form and the anatomical points in about 10 seconds per foot, and the dimensions and angles are automatically calculated and viewed in a few seconds. The subject stands with one barefoot inside the scanner and one foot outside the scanner, and the entire mass of the subject is equally distributed on both feet.
The scanned foot data can be used for foot morphological analysis, footwear/last selection, and also for designing new lasts or re-designing existing ones. The scanned data have the points cloud format, wireframe or solid format, and they are saved as FBD binary data that gives both the 3D foot shape and the position of the anatomical points. The binary file can also be exported by a specific INFOOT software module (for example File Converter) as *.csv, *.dxf, *.vrml or *.stl formats. These exported formats could be imported into different modelling or designing software. For this study, the OrthoLast modelling software from Delcam Crispin has been used.
2.2. Positioning of the anatomical points on foot
Accurate positioning of the anatomical points influences the value of anthropometric parameters. For the hereby-presented study case, the anatomical points mapping (Fig. 1) suggested by the scanner’s producer – INFOOT used (*** INFOOT website). The landmarks are automatically given by software in few seconds. Because several problems and structural modifications against normal foot have been identified for this case, each anatomical point is checked, and it is moved (if necessary) in its right position. Also, each transversal section is checked and corrected in case shape distortions occurred during scanning. Even if the scanning process takes several seconds, the correction process can take a long time. The commercially available scanning systems recognize the anatomical points for normal feet; in the case of feet having anomalies, this standard facility is less useful. Therefore, the accurateness in measurements taken for customized footwear can be affected by introducing huge errors regarding positioning the anatomical points (Sarghie et al., 2013).
2.3. Measurement/calculus of the main anthropometric measurements
The applied anthropometry into footwear industry aims to measure the foot. The foot measurements are assessed through precisely defined points that are called anatomical points. The anatomical points are some protuberances of the foot skeleton or its joints, and they are becoming well-shaped limits of the soft tissues. Several basic measurements are mentioned (Xiong S., et.al. 2008) for characterizing the foot dimensions and, therefore, its anthropometric. The longitudinal measurements (lengths of the foot) represent the distances from the heel extreme point (landing point or nearby it) to a series of precise anatomical points (for example, 1st or 2nd toe, instep point, 1st metatarsal head and 5th metatarsal head, etc.). These distances are measured up along the longitudinal axis of the foot. There are different opinions among specialists regarding the right position for this axis (Reel S., et.al. 2010, Chantelau E., and Gede A., 2002, Nikolaidou M.E., and Boudolos K.D. 2006). To keep the same reference as for the longitudinal axis of the last, the longitudinal axis of the foot is given in this study by the line that joins the heel centre with the head of 2nd metatarsal bone (Pastina et al., 2012). The transversal measurements are represented by widths and girths. The widths are measured on the outline of the foot or the footprint, perpendicularly on the foot's longitudinal axis or in line with ball direction. The girths are circumferences of foot measured up according to with previous defined sectional planes on metatarsal heads, instep, heel, ankle, etc. The heights represent the vertical distance measured up from the footing surface. These dimensions are measured through precisely defined points that are called anatomical points. The anatomical points are some protuberances of the skeleton or the joints, and they are becoming well-shaped limits of the soft tissues.
Fifteen anthropometric measurements (Fig. 2) are significant dimensions from footwear designer point of view: FL-Foot Length, FL5-Foot Length to 5th metatarsal head, FL1-Foot Length to 1st metatarsal head, FBW-Foot Ball Width, FLW-Foot Lateral Width, FAW-Foot Arch Width, FHW-Foot Heel Width, FBG-Foot Ball Girth, FIG-Foot Instep Girth, FHC-Foot Heel Circumference, FHB-Foot Height to top of Ball girth, FHI-Foot Height to Instep point, FHL-Foot Height to Lateral malleolus, FHM-Foot Height to Medial malleolus, FHT-Foot Height to 1st Toe joint.
Due to lack of generalized, universal accepted rules for taking measurements on foot/last, as well due to the need of standardized models for transforming the anthropometric data into dimensional parameters of last, the foot anthropometry applied to designing well-fitted footwear has been found quite difficult (Bertram H., 2011).
2.4. Comparing the foot against the reference last
The reference last, which is imported from an existing database, is subject to an interactively comparing process against the scanned foot. Following simplified hypotheses were considered for this study: the selected reference last has appropriate size towards subject’s foot length, it has low heel height, and it has rounded toe. On these lines, by using the Compare module of OrthoLast-Delcam Crispin software, the two 3D shapes (foot and last) were brought together on the same screen. The reference last and the foot are successively moved and rotated to align them in the same plane (Fig. 3).
When the two forms (last and foot) are correctly positioned, the face centre line of the foot should match with the face centre line of the last and the centre back line of the foot should match with the back centre line of the last. This process is somehow time-consuming, and it requires from designer to have strong visual abilities for correct perspectives on 3D forms moving into 2D space available on flat computer screens. At this point, any further technological developments on similar software could be very useful regarding making this process in an automatic manner, just with several corrections at the end.
2.5. Modifying the reference last toward the foot shape
A shoe-last designer is using various foot anthropometrical data that are transformed into constructive parameters of the last. Loot length, ball width and ball girth, instep and heel region girths, toe height, toe spring and heel height have been identified as most important factors affecting designs of shoe-lasts (Cheng F.T.and Perng D.B, 1999, Bertram H., 2011). Our study intends to analyze several more aspects and to extend the number of constructive parameters to highlight their importance and influence. Thus, using Delcam OrthoLast software the following parameters were modified and measured: Stick Length (SL), Lateral Width (LW), Bottom Length (BL), Ball Girth (BG), Ball Upper Girth (BUG), Ball Width Curved (BWC), Ball Width Linear (BWL), Instep Upper Girth (IUG), Instep Width Curved (IWC), Instep Width Linear (IWL), Short Heel Curved (SHC), Heel Width (HW), Heel Height (HH), Heel Counter (HC), Entrance Width (EW), Toe Spring (TS), Toe Length (TL), Toe Thickness (TT), Arch Curve (AC), Arch Width (AW). Figure 4 illustrates the methodology for measuring the hereby-mentioned parameters.
The technique of transforming an initial 3D structure into a new one, namely Free-From Deformation of Solid Geometric Models, represents one of the graphic procedures that allow for modifying a 3D structure by moving the basic points/nodes of its grid (Sederberg, T.W. 1986, Mochimaru M. and Kouchi M. 2011; Dumitras C., Cozminca I., 2008). Mochimaru M. et.al (2000) used this method for building new deformed grids suitable for grading the lasts. In our study, one structure (the last) represents the grid that will be interactively modified by moving precise points, and the other structure (the foot) represents the comparing form. The last and the foot are being compared until they are overlapping in as many points as possible. The two 3D shapes have different appearances: draft solid for foot and gridded frame for last. By overlapping, it can be seen the differences between the foot and the last. Therefore, the last will be modified in precisely selected areas (Fig. 5).
The last is modified acting on nine typical dimensional parameters, namely interactively modified parameters: SL, LW, BG, IUG, HW, HH, HC, TS, and TT. These parameters have been selected based on an initial analysis of the need for modification according to with the subject’s foot. The other dimensional parameters that also describe the modified shape of the last represent the outcome-modified parameters, and they are BL, BUG, BWC, BWL, IWC, IWL, SHC, EW, TL, AC, AW. On each step, one single parameter from the first category is interactively modified. The modification upon one parameter is affecting all studied parameters that allow for collecting series of data to be statistically analyzed.